Tomato Late Blight and Control

One tomato disease that really upsets tomato growers is the tomato blight.  The common strands being ‘early blight’ and ‘late blight’, but at the end of the day regardless, the plant and fruit suffers from blight.  Once a plant has tomato blight there is very little that can be done about it and the plants have to be destroyed.  They either need to go in the trash for collection or burnt.  If they are thrown on the compost the garden will have more blight than the grower can cope with.

So what is blight exactly?  Blight is a fungal disease which grows on the tomato plant and destroys it and its ability to produce fruit.

How does blight establish itself?

Being a fungal disease the spores are in the air and when they land on a wet, warm tomato plant and they start growing.  The ideal situation is for the water to sit on the plant long enough that the spore can grow.  If the water dries up very quickly it cannot take a hold, or if there is no water on the plant the occurrence of fungal growth is reduced.  Areas where the fungal disease is really bad, is partly due to its climatic conditions.  The humid areas suffer the most.

What does late blight look like?

The leaves on the plant will look black and greasy.   On the underside of the leaf there is a fine gray mold during the wet periods.

Dealing with late blight.

Watering is a major issue with these types of plants and keeping the leaves dry is the most important task.  When growing tomatoes set up a ground watering system so that the leaves stay dry.

How to grow tomatoes for blight protection.

There are 3 methods that can help with keeping the plants aerated so that they dry quickly and they are:

1.     To protect them from rain a clear plastic sheet can be arranged over the plants to keep them dry.

2.    Grow them in the espalier method which spreads out the branches along a wall and where the plants get heat from a wall which will help with drying the leaves.

3.    Planting the plants against a single stake and making sure there is at least 4 feet between plants so that the airflow between the plants will dry them quickly.  Using this method also requires that there are only 3 – 5 suckers allowed to grow to full length for fruit production otherwise there will not be sufficient airflow in the plant itself.

Blight might be able to be contained by immediately removing any parts where it is noticed in the very early stages.  Any tomato parts removed should be disposed of off the property.

There are two other courses of action that can help with controlling blight and that is to purchase ‘blight resistant’ tomato plants and to rotate crops every 3-4 years with non-related crops.

Fungicide can be used to control blight and it does need to be used on a regular basis and also needs to start before the onset of any signs of blight.  Spraying also needs to include any new growth that is being formed.

Weather Problems Growing Tomatoes

Tomato growers are constantly striving for the right balance of water, sunlight, food and soil to produce the very best tomatoes. One thing they have no control over is the environment and the weather conditions. A good crop of tomatoes can be savaged by adverse weather, and below are a few of the common weather problems people face when growing tomatoes.

Sunscald

Tomato plants require between 6-8 hours of sunlight per day; but if they are exposed to too much sun for a prolonged period of time, it can ruin the fruit. Sunscald literally scorches the tomatoes and shows up as white or yellow areas on the side of the fruit which has been facing the sun. The area will dry out and collapse which allows organisms into the fruit and makes it rot.

To prevent sunscald, tomato plants must be given plenty of shade. The leaves and foliage of the plant provide this naturally, but some growers use cages to support the plant and create the best possible combination of sun and shade.

Blossom drop

This problem is often caused by fluctuating temperatures, or when the temperature drops below 55 degrees or rises above 75 degrees. Dry conditions and lack of water can also cause blossom drop, so it is essential to keep plants well watered.

Blossom drop is one problem any grower will want to avoid when growing tomatoes; it causes the blossom to fall from the vine rather that going on to form fruit. All that a grower can do is control the moisture of the soil and hope for more mediate temperatures.

Cracked tomatoes

Cracked tomatoes are caused by two very different types of weather condition; rainfall and high temperatures.

Cracking can occur if there has been a long dry period and it is followed by heavy rainfall. The excess of moisture encourages rapid growth and the flesh of the fruit plumps up faster than the skin can grow; making the skin crack.

High temperatures, up above 90 degrees will also cause tomatoes to crack. The direct sunlight and humid temperatures scorch the skin and cracks the surface. Tomatoes will quickly rot if they are cracked, so any such fruit should be removed from the vine.

Catface tomatoes

This problem is associated with cool weather during the flowering stage, and is certainly an unwanted problem when growing tomatoes. The tomatoes can form odd shapes and crevices, brown scars appear around the crevices and on the bottom of the fruit. Quite often the skin will crack and the tomatoes will rot.

Irregular watering can also create catface tomatoes, so it is important to be consistent with watering and mulching, and to keep the soil nice and moist.

Growing tomatoes is relatively easy if they are given water consistently, and the soil is moist. They also need plenty of sunlight, but must be allowed plenty of shade. Sadly though, no tomato grower can control the weather!

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When To Plant Tomatoes For The Best Results

\Are you craving to grow your own juicy, luscious and sweet tomatoes? Lucky for you, tomatoes today can be grown almost anywhere, and as with most of the vegetation planting a little bit of tender loving care can go a long way into rewarding you the sweetest fruit. But knowing when to plant tomatoes and how to take the right care of them definitely plays a vital role in giving you the best results.

Not many can resist the delicious temptation of a tomato freshly picked from the vine and it comes for no surprise that the tomato is the most popular grown vegetables in the States. Growing tomatoes is quite easy but it is all about watching for those blights and pest which might eat up your plants. Some people grow tomatoes with an inclination for business, while others grow them as part of their hobby and would love to see their own hand grown tomatoes in their salads.

Whatever is the reason, the gaining in popularity of growing tomatoes on a commercial basis, or organically grown in a home environment definitely yields more tomatoes every year, but just for the records – not all would suit your personal use.

Points to consider before deciding on the variety to grow:

• Consider whether the climate and conditions will suit the variety of tomato you would like to grow.
• Realize how much time you might be having to maintain your plants
• Calculate how much fruit you would like to harvest
• Decide if you like to have tall or small plants

These points will help you to decide and shortlist the variety you would like to choose from.

Temperature requirements

Before deciding on when to plant tomatoes, it is important to consider the temperature condition of your country, as tomatoes need an outdoor temperature of 65°F to almost 85°F during the day. During the night the temperature should not fall below 60°F, as this might be harmful for your plant. For many countries, the time when to plant tomatoes seedlings is during the end of the first month of summer.

Method of planting:

When you need to plant your seedlings into the ground, they should be placed 12 to 18 inches wide apart so that they do not look crowded and get intertwined with each other. If you are choosing bigger plants when they grow to maturity then you need to make sure that the distance between two plants should be as much as 36 inches. Choose an area which can get a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of sun

Support:

It is important to give a very good support for these plants, because if they touch the ground they will be infected with pests and diseases which might ruin their life. Support can be given to the plant with the help of a stake, cage, teepee or a trellis.

With the help of proper pruning, care, dedication and definitely experience you will exactly know when to plant tomatoes and make them sweeter and better. Ideally tomatoes should be harvested only when they are fully ripened, and just starting to soften, but often times they have to be picked firm and left to ripen indoors. These crops grow on almost any soil and will make you fall in love with it.

Tomato Fertilizer Is The Answer For Luscious Tomatoes

Tomato fertilizer is a very important ingredient in the success of growing tomatoes, but it is not just any old fertilizer that needs to be given to tomato plants.   Fertilizing the tomato plants has to be done in the right manner so that the best results are achieved.  Some preplanning is the best way to start the fertilizing process.

Before rushing out and buying tomato seedlings it is a matter of preparing the soil in the garden or pot.  Once the decision has been made as to where the tomato plants are going to be planted it then becomes a task of preparing the soil before planting any seedlings.

Fertilizing the soil a few days before planting the tomato plants means that there is less chance of any damage by burning the roots of the plant.   Using a mix of soil and manure or compost is suitable if the soil is in good condition, but if it is not then the soil may need some 8-8-8 commercial fertilizer. Use according to the instructions.

When to fertilize.

After planting the fertilizer does not need to be as strong and can be dropped back to 5-8-5 into 1 gallon of water.  Use approximately one pint of liquid per tomato plant.

Now that the plant is in the soil, wait until the first fruits appear before giving another dose of fertilizer because if you do feed too early all it will do is produce large leaves which will take the nutrients from the plant and the fruit volume will be much less and possibly smaller.

Once the fruit is formed start fertilizing every two weeks until well into the harvesting season.

Another popular fertilizer is the seaweed fertilizer which is an organic fertilizer and does very well nourishing the tomato plants.

Container tomato plants.

Premix the soil as mentioned previously, and add fertilizer if necessary.  One needs to keep in mind the fact that container grown tomato plants need to be fed on a regular basis because they cannot draw on nutrients in surrounding areas.

Because container plants are reliant on added fertilizer it would be best to start with weak fertilizing solutions until the flowers appear and then increase the strength when the fruit is formed.

One method that can work well with container grown tomato plants is to use a slow release fertilizer.  This way not so much attention is needed in the day to day care of the plants.   Slow release fertilizers come in little ‘seed like’ balls and it can also be bought in spikes that are pushed into the soil near the tomato plant.

When fertilizing plants, including tomato plants, it is important to remember not to make the mix any stronger than the instructions because a strong mix can actually burn the roots, the leaves, the fruit or the stems once it is in contact.  It is better to under fertilize than it is to over fertilize.

Tomato Fertilizer Instructions

Using the right fertilizer for tomatoes is important and the reason is that they require certain nutrients to be able to grow as they do.

When you think about it these plants have to do a huge amount of growing in just a few short weeks.  In say 16-20 weeks they have grown from a little seed to a full grown plant, produce a large number of leaves and of course, just what we have been waiting for, a lot of lovely ripe fruit.

The one in the picture here is Brandywine which is a huge tomato so just imagine how much goodness that requires to get to this fruiting stage.

There is no way a tomato plant can do all of that unless it has the right nutrients.  Years and years ago when I first started growing tomatoes I never used to use all the nutrients that I know know they need and my plants were always spindley and pathetic looking, and if they had any fruit on them, if the plant hadn’t already given up, it was small and hard without any decent flesh to it.  And usually it had very little taste.

But not today! I have learnt that it is important to start preparing the ground even before I plant my tomatoes.  I start preparing the soil by turning it over several times so that it is nice and aerated and light and when I plant my tomatoes I use the following formula.

Tomato Fertilizer Instructions

Soil for tomatoes should be slightly acidic and the pH balance according to Organic Gardening magazine should be between 6.0 and 6.8.  The acidity of your soil is very important for the continued good health of the plant.  If you cannot check the acidity of the soil then simply mix ¾ cup of lime and ½ cup of 8-8-8 fertilizer together.  The 8-8-8 fertilizer may seem a mystery, but in actual fact it relates to the contents of the fertilizer which they designate by weight, the percentage of the three major nutrients that all plants need for strong healthy growth.  If you use this mix you cannot go far wrong.

The mix is nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium.  The three ‘8’s’ relate in the sequence mentioned here.  If the numbers are different it means that in that sequence the particular amount of that mix is changed.

Side Dressing the Plants

Once the tomato plants is in the ground leave any fertilizing til later otherwise you will end up with a plant with loads of long big leaves and less fruit.

Once the flowers have started to form then start side dressing the tomato plant.  ‘Side dressing’ means that you sprinkle your fertilizer around the plant in a circle straight down from the outside edge of the leaves. This means the fine roots will be feed well and you will burn the plant by fertilizing too close.

The fertilizer should be watered in, but only as part of your usual watering regime.

Using these tomato fertilizing instructions you will be growing beautiful strong fruit bearing tomatoes given that the temperature is warm enough.  Remember they need 6-8 hours sunlight a day.

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Grow Trap Crops To Control Pests On Tomato Plants

The idea of growing trap crops near tomato plants is one that not all gardeners agree with because the process is actually the growing of crops that attract similar pests that also like the tomato plant.  It is understandable then that unless, as the gardener you have plenty of time to physically control the pests on the trap crops, the system will not work.

The idea is to lure the pests away from the tomato plants and onto the trap crops, but the trap crops need debugging and/or need to be removed so that the trap crop is not actually ‘growing’ more pests that will go back to the tomato plants.

Trap Crops That May Work With Tomatoes.

I say ‘may work’ because for trap crops to work it still needs effort from the grower to get rid of the pests once they are on the trap crop.

1.    Dill and Lovage – these two herbs are popular with the hornworms so if you can get them to work for you then that would be fantastic as these worms are voracious eaters.
2.    Allium family (onions, garlic, leek, shallots, chives etc.) – repel slugs, aphids.
3.    Marigolds – these plants will deter beetles which can be a problem in some areas.  They also deter nematodes which harm tomato plants.
4.    Carrots – they are very good for the tomato plant but the carrots themselves might remain stunted.  Carrots do actually need to flower to be of any use as a trap crop with their insect-attracting properties, so carrots may only be planted as a trap crop and not for consumption.
5.    Squash and cucumber are popular as a trap crops for managing the whitefly and tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV).  Tropical and subtropical areas face whitefly as the major tomato growing problem.
6.    Radish – the radish helps lure the flea beetle away from the tomato plant which can work well because otherwise the flea beetle is hard to control.
7.    Thrips are attracted very strongly to blue so using crops with a blue flower or suitable plants in blue pots could work well.

Planting a Trap Crop.

Often a trap crop is planted around the outside of a tomato crop, but with a home garden situation the plants may just be planted nearby.  Trap crops as mentioned are used to attract the pests to them so they do need to be fairly near the tomato plant.

There are other methods of pest control and one that relies on planting other crops is ‘companion planting’.  This is where plants that repel the insects attracted to the tomato plant are planted nearby as a form of protection for the tomato plant.

The advantages of trap cropping are that less pesticide needs to be used and this is most definitely beneficial to the health of the consumer and to the environment in general.  The cost of pesticides is also reduced.  The reduction in pesticides means the soil is maintaining a better quality as well.  In most cases it is also found with tomato planting that the quality of the crop is much improved when trap crops are used and under strict control.

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How To Grow Tomatoes Successfully By Staking Them

There is one part of growing tomatoes on which there are many different opinions and methods.  Usually a home tomato grower will stick with what has been successful for them, but is that the best method?  Let’s explore methods of staking?  The purposes of staking tomatoes are many so there will be quite a bit to look at on this topic.
Usually the smaller tomato plants (determinate) are only staked to actually support the main stem so that it does not bend with the weight of the fruit, but the larger tomato plants are more often than not staked, and staked early in the growing process.

One might argue whether staking is essential or not : and I have heard many different reasons for and against, so here are the ones I have heard.  The argument for is to:

•    keep the plants (leaves and fruit) off the ground:
•    weed more easily
•    enable fertilizing without burning the leaves
•    water without rotting the leaves or fruit
•    more easily be able to access the fruit at picking time
•    more easily be able to control pests because you can see them better
•    allow air flow around the plant
•    minimise the ground area that the plant needs for growing
•    be able to spray the plants more successfully for pests and diseases

Reasons not to stake the tomato plant are not that many, but some growers prefer their plants to sprawl along the ground and root at contact.  Perhaps they believe that more roots will provide a stronger system for a fruiting plant.

As a tomato grower you will most probably agree with some of these ideas and disagree with some of them.

Different Methods Of Staking.

1.    What appears to be the most common method amongst home gardeners is the single stake beside the plant and as the plant grows, tie it to the one stake.
2.    The tepee style is also popular and it does give more protection on the outside of the plant.  Twine can be tied around the various stakes and this can be helpful if there are family pets that might run through the garden.
3.    A wire cage is a popular option for the smaller varieties because they are protected on the outside.  The cage is simply formed by using a circle of wire mesh to fit around the plant and using stakes to hold it in place.  It does need to be pushed into the ground to prevent animals crawling underneath it and eating the tomatoes.
4.    Another method is to use a trellis.  Growing tomatoes up a trellis can be done in the espalier system or just randomly to support the vine.  If a trellis is used make sure that the plant is on the sunny side of the trellis so that it gets maximum sunlight.  The trellis method can be used in the open garden and it is ideal for using in a courtyard or balcony situation.

Tying of the plant is best with either lengths of rag or nylon stockings cut about 2 inches wide and about 18 inches long.  Both of these fabrics are better to use than plastic ties because they do not cut into the soft stem of the tomato.  Tie them loosely but tight enough to keep the plant from flopping over.   A method of tying that is very successful is to have two stakes, one each side of the plant and run the tie from one stake, around the tomato plant and over to the second stake and tie it off.  This stops the plant from being blown around in the wind as can happen when a single stake is used.

When you have learnt how to grow tomatoes successfully you will most likely want to experiment with other varieties.  There are thousands of tomato varieties and growing your own fresh tomatoes can be a pure joy.

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Heirloom Tomato Seeds – What are they?

What exactly are heirloom tomatoes?  Well, they are tomatoes that have been grown using seeds that are from the very original varieties and have not been crossed in any way.  As with many other plants, tomato varieties have been crossed and there are in fact about 10,000 varieties of tomatoes according to one of America’s top tomato seed suppliers.  This number seems almost amazing doesn’t if?  Who would ever have thought that the everyday household tomato could come in so many varieties?

Why do home growers choose heirloom varieties?

It is a well known fact that heirloom tomatoes have a much better flavor than the usual commercially grown tomatoes (the crossed tomatoes).  Of course, if you ask me, any tomato grown on the home vine is better than most commercial varieties.

Commercial varieties have been bred for color, size, uniformity, harvest volume, shape or for one of many other reasons too, and in all this crossing of varieties some of the flavors have been lost.

There are hundreds of heirloom varieties.  It is not as if there are only a dozen to choose from.  They come in all sizes and shapes to suit a grower’s taste and fancy.

Suppliers of heirloom varieties often offer seeds from all around the world and the avid home tomato grower does like to try different varieties, if not for anything else, just a change and some extra enjoyment from the usual crops they grow.

Here is a list of some of the popular ones that are available:

Black tomatoes:

•    Black Krim, Black Cherry, Cherokee Purple, Black Plum, Black Plum, Cherokee Chocolate, Black Brandywine, Paul Robeson

Bi-colored tomatoes:

•    Green Zebra, Big Zebra, Big White Pink Stripe, Gold Medal, Marvel Stripe, Red Zebra, Texas Star, Vintage Wine

Cherry tomatoes:

•    Amish Red, Aunt Ruby’s Yellow, Austin’s Red Pear, Dr. Carolyn, Gardener’s Delight, Gold Current, Golden Grape, Idi, Sprite

The more you read about these wonderful varieties the more you just want keep growing different tomatoes.  They sound so delicious but it is impossible to grow them all.

For more choices of heirloom tomatoes and to purchase seeds visit Tomatofest.com which I found to be so informative.

Growing Container Tomatoes Espalier Up Courtyard Walls

“Oh, but I haven’t got enough room”, you might say, but here is a method of growing container tomatoes in very small areas that will be perfect for even the smallest courtyard or patio.  The method I am talking about is ‘espalier’ which means running the tomato plant up and along a trellis and there are several benefits to doing this.  In a courtyard the trellis needs to be against a wall that receives as much sunlight as possible because tomato plants require 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. (The picture is a perfect example of espalier, but with an olive tree.)

The benefits of growing espalier tomatoes.

There really are many reasons for growing tomato plants this way but if the only growing space available is limited then it is the answer to that problem.

Other benefits of growing espalier tomato plants is that when the plant is spread out it does tend to suffer less problem with diseases because the leaves stay dry and it is wet leaves that cause the diseases to flourish.  Also it is much easier to see pests moving around the plant when the branches are spread out.

The warmth from the wall is just loved by the tomato plant and under the right conditions tomatoes grown this way often ripen sooner than those in an open garden.

And the best!   The plants are usually situated near the kitchen and that makes it so much easier to manage them and of course, pick those luscious fruits at the end of the growing season.

Trellis.

A trellis is often used in a garden to support tomato plants, but in the courtyard or patio situation it is ideal because there is less room and the delight of growing your own tomatoes is still possible without taking up too much of the area available.  As well as that, they do look lovely with the bright red fruit hanging on the tomatoe vine.

Preparing to grow container tomatoes.

In preparation to grow espalier tomatoes in small areas there needs to be some steps taken to ensure success:

•    Choose the spot or growing the tomato and ensure that the wall has sufficient sunlight all day, then fix the trellis to the wall
•    Use a pot that has a minimum 18 inch top (12 inch could be used if absolutely necessary)
•    Cover the holes at the bottom of the pot with some very fine mesh to prevent soil loss and place about 2 inches of rocks in the bottom
•    Prepare the soil so that it is the right balance for tomatoes: pH level of 6.0 to 6.8, sufficient calcium levels, add plenty of compost (preferably organic)
•    Plant the tomato in the pot up to the top 4 to 6 leaves (yes, that is right as the stem will grow roots and be a strong plant to support the weight of the tomato tree)
•    As the plant grows spread the branches out and tie them with 2 inch old nylon stocking strips to the trellis (nylon stocking or rag strips do not cut into the stems)
•    Prune the leaves where necessary but try to keep the fruit covered with leaves so that they do not get sunscald

Generally speaking the only difference with growing container tomatoes the espalier style is the way in which the support of the tomato plant is done, otherwise all other tomato growing information is the same.  They will need watering correctly and they will need fertilizing the right way

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Blossom End Rot. Stop It Before It Starts

Blossom end rot is one of those conditions when growing tomatoes creeps up on you and can be so disappointing.  Right this moment I have three Roma tomatoes sitting in front of me that look delicious from the stalk end but when you turn them around they are shrunken, a greenish/brown and looks rotten in a circular form on the end of the tomato.

This is such a disappointing state to find your tomatoes in when they have started to color.

The actual fact of blossom end rot is that it is a disease that starts at the point where the blossom has dropped off the fruit.  Blossom end rot does occur in other fruit types as well, such as watermelon and capsicums.

What often does happen is that where the damaged skin is a secondary mould may grow and those who do not realize it, think that the mould is actually the cause of the problem, but not so.

Tomato plants do suffer from many parasitic diseases, but in this case the disease is a physiological one, meaning that one or more of the environmental factors regarding the plant are causing the inadequate function of the plant.

Cause of Blossom End Rot

The cause of this disease is the supply of calcium to the developing fruit not being met by the plant itself.  Sometimes it could be lack of calcium in the soil but that is not necessarily the case.  Calcium is a very important component to healthy plant and fruit growth, in fact it is essential to the forming and holding together of plant cells.  What happens is that in an area where cell growth is very rapid, as in the forming of fruit, where is an inadequate supply of calcium because of the distance of the source, thereby causing the death of cells and the breakdown of plant tissues.

When flowers are forming into fruit, this point is the furthest away from the calcium supply and therefore the last area to be serviced, meaning that the cell growth cannot be maintained as it needs to be.

Although we have discussed the lack of calcium, it needs to be understood that it is not the lack of calcium as such.  In other words, if you sprinkled calcium powder around the plant, that would not fix the problem.

It is the absorption of calcium throughout the plant and into the cells that prevents, or stops further blossom end rot.  If you have this problem then look at your soil and your watering as they are common problems with calcium uptake.  One cause is the one you most likely won’t be able to do anything about if you are growing tomatoes outside, and that is hot windy weather that dries the leaves and slows down the travel of calcium to the fruit formation area.

Growing A Hanging Tomato Garden

Tomato gardening is just about the most favorite type of vegetable gardening that most people love to do around the world. Nothing becomes as tasty and fresh as homegrown fresh tomatoes and you will unquestionably enjoy the ripe fruit from its late spring and throughout fall.

But unfortunately many people today live in apartments or townhouse and they still would like to enjoy the fresh tomatoes but have little space. This is why a hanging tomato garden is the best idea and it has become increasingly popular over the last several years, as these hanging planters can be put out on the porch or on a patio or even on a balcony.

The biggest advantage of a hanging tomatoe garden is that it needs only a small amount of space and no real floor space is taken up. So a balcony or a patio works fine for these. As long as the growing pot can feed in the plant, even the largest tomato varieties do quite well. Growing tomatoes in your hanging tomato garden is basically quite easy and there are thousands of varieties to choose from.

What are the benefits?

A hanging tomato garden definitely has a lot of benefits that might not be noticed with traditional tomato planters. Some of the benefits that you would love to notice are:

Pest free: Since the fruit and the leaves do not rest on the soil but are suspended in the air, you will have almost no problems with slugs, pest and other diseases.

Bitter fruit: Just because your plant is not infected with huge problems of pest and other diseases, chances are that your plant will grow a better quality crop and will be tastier. An increase in better air circulation gives you an improved pollination, less problems and of course higher yields.

Faster growing tomatoes: Because the soil around your plants is open on all sides, it can warm much better than the traditional ground planting, benefiting you with early ripening of tomatoes.

Transferable hanging tomato garden: The beauty of a hanging tomato garden is that you can move your plants around the outside of the house to give it utmost benefit of the sun. In fact, they can be grown near the kitchen area for better convenience if there is enough sunlight.

Easy pruning: This type of gardening method definitely gives you a much simpler ways of pruning especially when you do not have to cage them.

Harvesting the fruit from your own garden is one of the sweetest experiences that you could share with your family. No fruit can taste better than the one grown by your own hands. Those who have never tried this before should at least try it once to be amazed at how successful a hanging tomato garden can be!

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